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May 23, 2021

The Unexpected: Motherhood

May 23, 2021

I spent most of my adult life thinking I would never be a parent.


In my late teens and throughout all of my twenties, I made no secret of the fact that I was certain that having kids was not a path meant for me. I had a lot of reasons for this (I still think most of them were very good ones) so imagine my surprise finding myself here at 34 years old, knee deep in onesies and tummy time while permanently attached to a breast pump. Spending all of my little free time staring in awe at my 7 month old son.


It all happened so fast, yet somehow not fast at all. I lived an entire lifetime without Finn, and now all of a sudden he is my entire life. My pre-Finn life was one where I thought so infrequently about having kids, or starting a family. And now, I’m engulfed in it. It’s clear to me now that it was always meant to be, even when I thought it wasn’t.


It’s also the only explanation I can think of as to how a person (me) who has so little experience taking care of babies can be thrown into a life where that is all they are doing – and it just feels completely normal.


When I say “so little” experience, I’m being generous. Before Finn, I had zero experience.

I never spent a day of my life babysitting. Finn’s was the first diaper I ever changed, the first baby I ever bathed, or fed or rocked to sleep. By the time the nurses placed him on my chest after he was born, he was probably the 5th or 6th baby I had ever held in my entire life.


Yet for absolutely no logical reason, I still felt confident that I’d be able to figure it out when the time came. I have always leaned a bit more towards the “figure it out as I go” path anyway, and it turns out becoming a mother was no different. I could read all the books, and practice swaddling all the stuffed animals in the world (yes, I did this) but I was never going to fully know what it would take to be Finn’s mother until he arrived, and there was no real way to prepare.


And thankfully, it ended up working out. A lot of it did come to me in a natural way, and I was lucky to be able to draw on advice from friends, great doctors and the internet for the all stuff that didn’t. But that doesn’t mean it was easy.

I am still very new to this, but now that I’ve been Finn’s mom for 7 months, I have some thoughts to get out about the unexpected parts of becoming a mom in those first few months. The biggest aspects of new motherhood that I never saw coming (which is probably no surprise when you think about how unprepared I was in general) but even if I had expected them, I’m not sure I would have been any more prepared. So far, entering motherhood feels like one of those things that can only really be learned through experience.


#1: The love you feel is kind of scary.

On October 19th, 2020, five weeks before his due date and despite my lack of baby experience, Finn decided he’d come anyway.

I wasn’t ready. I needed that last month. We hadn’t packed a hospital bag, or picked a pediatrician. We didn’t take any of those sweet maternity pictures, and we hadn’t taken a single virtual baby class.


But, of course it didn’t matter if I was ready. It all happened in an instant. One moment I was cramping, and the next I was getting an emergency C-section. Al and I didn’t even have a chance to talk to anyone we loved first, or enough operating brain cells to remember to bring a camera into the room to capture Finn’s first moments. But in the end, I didn’t need the pictures anyway. I remember it all perfectly.


“There you are, sweet boy” was the first thing I heard my doctor say when she saw Finn and pulled him out. Those words were followed by three beats of pure silence, and then the reassuring sound of his cries. And that was it, the moment.

My son was officially a living, breathing part of the world. And I was officially a mother. Everything that came next was so incredibly difficult for me and for Finn that I am forever grateful that her kind, gentle words were the first that Finn heard.


Becoming a mother, I was not prepared for the way loving my son would feel. I expected it to be a new kind of love, an unconditional kind of love, but I was not expecting it to also be such a frightening kind of love in those early days. I felt this way almost instantly once Finn was out of my body and in the world.


In “Operating Instructions, a Journal of My Son’s First Year,” Anne Lamott describes this shift that happened for her once her son Sam was born:


“In a very real sense, I felt that life could pretty much just hit me with her best shot, and if I lived, great, and if I died, well, then I could be with Dad and Jesus and not have to endure my erratic skin or George Bush any longer. But now I am fucked unto the Lord. Now there is something that could happen that I could not survive: I could lose Sam. I look down into his staggeringly lovely little face, and I can hardly breathe sometimes. He is all I have ever wanted, and my heart is so huge with love that I feel like it is about to go off. At the same time I feel that he has completely ruined my life, because I just didn’t used to care all that much.”


I feel my own version of that. I didn’t realize how I little I cared until I compared it with how much I care now. About everything. All of a sudden, I have more to lose than I ever realized possible, everything is infused with a different kind of meaning, and nothing looks the same as it used to. A point of no return has been crossed. That’s the scary part. 


It’s scary, but it doesn’t mean I don’t love it. I’m up for this, I’m here, I’m showing up. It’s the most incredible thing I’ve ever experienced, but it’s still scary as shit.


#2: Learning how to feel like a mom is a process (for some of us). It’s not always an instant shift the moment your baby is born. 


After Finn was born, the weeks that followed were the hardest of my life – he spent nearly a month in the NICU due to his premature birth. We couldn’t bring him home with us, we couldn’t hold him at first without permission, and there were always dozens of tubes and wires coming out of his tiny body that we had to carefully navigate around any time we wanted to pick him up.


It was difficult to feel like a mother during those first few weeks. I wasn’t the one taking care of him, I couldn’t protect him or help him. The (amazing) nurses were the ones doing all of that. Twice a day I’d visit him in the NICU, and twice a day I’d say goodbye and return to an empty home without my son.


I quickly became anxious and overwhelmed. It was a big challenge to steel myself to walk into the doors of the NICU each day. I had no idea what was in front of me, each moment a rollercoaster of emotions. Would the nurses tell us he had another brady last night? Would his oxygen be put back in?  How is this going to impact the rest of his life? Is he going to be okay? How is this really happening?


The NICU at times can feel like a pressure cooker. It is kept at an extremely warm temperature, and there is a constant beeping from the hundreds of machines. There are teeny tiny babies laying alone in incubators everywhere you look, and various loud alarms going off at random times to signify to the nurses that somewhere, a baby was quickly losing their ability to breathe.


Those first seconds of the alarm going off, you are not quite sure if it is your baby that isn’t breathing – or someone else’s.

We would hear other parents crying feet away from us behind a curtain, but there was nothing we could do. We were in the middle of a global pandemic, masks on, 6 feet apart at all times.

I’ve heard so many stories about lifelong friendships and bonds that are formed between parents in the NICU together, and access to that level of support was just another one of the hundreds of things the pandemic took from us during this time. The best thing we as fellow NICU parents could do for one another was to stay as far away from each other as possible. 


More than once, we held Finn in our hands and watched completely helpless as he stopped breathing. We were lucky, because he always started again on his own, but those seconds were terrifying, and it took every ounce of strength to collect ourselves and move on from it just a few moments later so we could continue to be there for Finn.
During this time everything felt so hopelessly out of my control that I realized there were only two things I could do for my son:


The first was giving him milk. Since he was taking his food through a tube, I couldn’t directly breastfeed – but I could try and pump out as much milk as possible so the nurses could give it to him through his tube. And that’s what I did, every 1-2 hours, and so much so that the nurses had to kindly ask me to stop bringing in my milk because their freezer was overflowing with it.


The second thing I could do – and this was much more difficult than the first – was to let go of everything that I wanted to happen.


I had to let go of Finn coming home by a certain time, of hearing good news from the hospital, of Finn getting off of his feeding tube and learning to drink from a bottle, and even let go of Finn learning how to learn to breathe regularly.

I had to let go of my misdirected resentment towards all the other parents that got to take their healthy newborn babies home after just 2-3 days in the hospital. Of my anger towards well-meaning but hurtful comments others would make, or when anyone tried to make light of the situation we were in.

I had to let it all go and focus on bringing the one thing that only I could, but I wasn’t quite sure how to:

the mom energy. 


The realization that letting go and bringing the mom energy was my most important job hit me pretty early on. We were working our way through all the various security check-points to get into the NICU, and I was filled with so much anxiousness. My stomach was upset, I had heartburn, I felt flighty and unstable. I felt so out of my depth emotionally, so overcome with worry about if Finn would be okay or not, when I heard my own voice in my head say “Megan, pull it together because Finn needs you and you are the mother.” Oh, shit.

The thought that I was the mother initially overwhelmed me. How could I be anyone’s mother right now? It felt like I was spiraling, lost in my own grief and guilt and pain. I had barely been a mom for two seconds, and felt like I had already let Finn down in this monumental way, my body had failed to keep him safe (I know this isn’t true, but it is how it feels to a new mother). How could I possibly bring the stability and emotional capacity needed, when I was struggling to stay afloat? 


But at the same time, if I didn’t show up for him in these hardest early moments of his life, how would he know that he could survive it?

I instinctively understood through my grief that I had to bring the mom energy to the NICU. Because nobody else could. I was, and still am, the only mom he has. That feeling is what pulled out all of my reserve strength, so I could show up for him during his first days of life when he so desperately needed it. 


Finn was the one that had to do all the hard work. Being his mom in those moments meant my sole job was to show up to the NICU every day for Finn and bring him that loving, supportive, protective, and all encompassing unconditional love that only a mother-type figure can bring. And since I was the mom in this scenario, that meant me.


He needed to feel my confidence, my calm presence that he’d be okay. That he could do this. That we could do this together. It was hard for him, it was hard for me, but we’d get through it. That I had all the patience in the world for him to figure things out as he needed to. That no matter what — he was perfect. 


And then I also needed to get some professional help to take care of myself to work through the trauma that I was going through for when I wasn’t in the NICU. Being his mom didn’t mean abandoning myself and sacrificing my needs to show up for him, it meant taking care of me first so I could fully show up for Finn every day we lived at the NICU, and all the days after. It was both.


After that, Al and I worked really hard to only fall apart at home. The NICU became the time for me to work on strengthening my mom muscles. Letting Finn figure out the world at his own pace, and letting go of how I think things should be, simply showing up and accepting where we were, while offering unconditional love – over, and over, and over again.

In only 7 months of motherhood, I’ve already had to lean back on this early lesson countless times. I’m glad I learned it deeply, and early.


And eventually, when Finn decided he was ready, it was time to come home. 


#3: My sense of self would change, but not in the way I expected.


Back when I was so unsure about becoming a mother, one of my biggest hesitations was the fear of losing my identity, a loss of self. I had really internalized the idea that in order to be a good mother, the expectation was that you had to sacrifice yourself. That sounded like a nightmare to me, a recipe for long-term discontentment, probably some eventual resentment. Why would I want to do that? 

Jump forward to one of the first nights of having Finn home.

I was laying in bed in the middle of the night trying to get a few seconds of sleep. I was in a sleep limbo – the only kind of sleep available for new parents. You’re sort of resting, but your body is fully alert, tuned in with every movement and sound your newborn baby makes.


As I started to drift off to the elusive land of real sleep, I felt a sudden wave of tense pulsing emotion move through my body. I clearly heard and felt the sounds of Finn crying in my mind and felt an anxious energy move throughout my chest.


A few seconds later, Finn woke up crying.


This was an unexpected aspect of new motherhood, but it instantly made sense to me. I grew him in my body, his cells were made from mine and existed with mine. Of course we remained connected in this way that I’d never experienced before. I could literally feel his emotions, my body alerting me in advance that I would be needed.

It’s also pretty indisputable evidence that I was no longer the same person that my I used to be. My former self had changed. Moving forward I would forever be split into me and Finn.


What I would now tell my pre-Finn self, is that she was both wrong and right about the loss of identity. I’m no longer the version of who I was before, but any sacrifices or changes that may have been made I have done so very willingly, to the point where they don’t feel like a sacrifice.

My life has changed dramatically since Finn (part of that has to do with pandemic life – which is a completely different post) but I still feel like “me” most days, just a lot more busy and tired than I used to be. The same person that loves reading, travelling, long hikes and bike rides, is still very much alive in me. I just have to be a lot more intentional about building that time in.


I also let go of any perceived expectation that complete sacrifice of self equates to being a good mom. For me, being a good mom boils down to being myself and loving Finn the best way I can, in my own way. It’s never going to look the same as someone else’s way, and I’m okay with that.

The other thing I would tell myself back then is, yes, there is no way getting around that becoming a mother means some sacrifice. The good news is you’re not just a mother to a baby, you’re FINN’s mother. Who in my eyes is the coolest, most interesting and fun human to ever exist on planet earth. It feels like an absolute privilege.


#4: Nights can feel scary and your baby might sound like a warthog

Before Finn, I had no idea how loud newborn babies were. Why doesn’t anyone talk about this? I suspect it’s because there are so many other more pressing things we worry about during this time, but for the first two months of Finn’s life, I thought that I may have birthed an animagus that transformed into an aggressive warthog at night. That’s how noisy he was.

When you suddenly hear snorting, honking, and wheezing sounds coming out of your new baby, it’s completely jarring. I called my pediatrician, and texted some mom friends to make sure this was “normal,” to which everyone assured me it was.


But we all know it is not.

It’s not normal for something so tiny to make those noises! Luckily for all of us, after a few months babies eventually learn how to regulate their breathing and don’t have to work so hard at it, which came as a very welcome relief for me.


Loud baby noises was just one of a million things that kept me on my toes as a new mom in those first few weeks with Finn at home. There was no shortage of anxiety-inducing landmines for me to look out for during my 4th trimester. The night scaries were a big one for me.


Each day, I found myself becoming increasingly anxious as daylight started to wane. Nights with a newborn baby brought me a very specific type of anxiety. Finn hadn’t yet learned days from nights, so he was still sleeping all day and raging all night.

I remember struggling to explain the night anxiety feeling to Al. The best way I could describe it was an untethered feeling of homesickness. If you’ve felt it, maybe you understand. It’s like you’re just floating in space and you aren’t quite sure how to ground yourself.  When morning would come around again, it was always the biggest sigh of relief. We had made it through another night.

For me, the 4th trimester was both wonderful and hard. Looking back, it does have a magical quality. The three of us spending endless time getting to know one another and really bonding as a family.

But I was also dealing with the shock of an early delivery and processing the fact that I was no longer pregnant when I technically should have been. That was hard, and it took me a long time to accept how our birth experience and the aftermath played out. Trying to deal with the trauma of the NICU, then learning to care for a premature infant with the constant fear of how to keep Finn safe during a global pandemic when we couldn’t see anyone was a really isolating experience.


And then there’s the physical load – unpredictable hormones, recovering from a major surgery, bleeding everywhere, leaking milk, constant pumping, and just generally being the main source of life for your baby, on-call at all hours of the day. It’s a lot. And let’s be honest, it doesn’t stop after three months. 7 months in, it’s still difficult, I’m just used to it now.


The fourth trimester requires a level of strength that is borderline superhuman. For me it was everything — beautiful, magical, terrifying and exhausting. There really is no pretty way to wrap it up, and all I can really say is that I have such a deep respect for every woman who has gone through it.


and eventually, just like everyone promises, it does get better.


#5: You don’t know until you know

Before Finn was born, I was a little worried I might be the perfect candidate for disliking the baby stage.

Years ago, when my mind started to change about having kids I was still really intimidated by the newborn stage. I remember thinking “if I could somehow just skip over those first 6 months, then maybe I could do it.”
I went into this fully expecting it to be hard in a way I’d never experienced. I expected a lot of work, patience and sleepless nights. Perhaps some marriage strain. Constant exhaustion. I felt like I understood it would be very draining and I would have to essentially give up my body for a long time (which I suppose pregnancy already does a good job of preparing you for).


What I really didn’t expect was how much fun it would be, or how much I’d actually enjoy it. I didn’t imagine that Al and I would be pushing each other out of the way, racing through the halls of our house to Finn’s room, fighting over who gets to be the first one to wake him up each morning.

I didn’t expect myself to fall into motherhood so comfortably. Watching Finn grow and turn into his own person is continually fascinating. Being his mom never gets old. Even on the hardest days of trying to balance work and family and all the other life things, I never wish I was doing something else.

I find myself constantly starting at Finn in complete wonder that he is my son, and he is becoming himself. A person with his own thoughts and feelings and his own unique gifts to share with the world. I still can’t get over that I get to be alongside him the whole time; to help guide him, cheer him on, and maybe suffocate him with love a little bit.

Of all the unexpected pieces of becoming a new mother, I guess the most surprising part has been just how much I love it so far.

Still unclear whether or not Finn is into it, though.

3 Comments · Labels: Life

December 31, 2018

A Year of the Lily

December 31, 2018

We had a tomato plant sit outside of our apartment for several months this year. My best friend Christie happened to have an excess of plants she was caring for, so she kindly allowed us to adopt one in order to free up some space in her own garden.

For awhile, things were going really well for this little tomato plant. We nurtured it, loved it, and re-potted it to give it a more spacious home to flourish in. Al even occasionally played it a few songs on guitar once we read an article that claimed plants who were exposed to regular music grew faster and stronger than those without it.

I would often come home from a bike ride and pluck one little red tomato off the vine, and toss it straight into my mouth. They were always perfectly fresh, with just the right balance of juiciness and earthiness. I started growing accustomed to being greeted by our little tomato plant when I arrived home each day, and felt a tiny surge of joy every time I saw a new fruit making its way out into the world.

Colorado weather is tricky. You always hear that the state boasts 300 days of sunshine a year, but what that tagline doesn’t include is that those days of sunshine can mean 30 minutes of sun in the freezing cold, followed by four hours of clouds and snow, and then back to warmth and blue skies for the rest of the day.

It can happen at any time of the year.

Which is exactly what happened on the summer day that we were out and about, and came home to find that our tomato plant was frozen and dead.

And that was the end of our short love affair with the tomato plant. That’s reality I guess. Some plants just do not survive harsh conditions. They need the right amount of warmth and light and moisture in order to flourish — and even with the right amount of time and care, it can all still be undone with just one poorly timed snow storm.

A few months after the loss of our tomato plant, I was walking through an outdoor market. The day was cold and windy, with some soft snow flurries blowing in the air. I walked past a beautiful home and noticed there was a garden full of sad looking plants, all slumped over probably teetering on the edge of their unavoidable wintery death.

I thought of our tomato plant, and then I noticed one stubborn flower that seemed to be refusing to slump. It had deep green leaves with little soft white bells everywhere. It almost looked as if it had just been planted that day. I wondered why the owner would bother planting flowers this time of year, when the weather would surely force them to die in a matter of days.

I looked up the flower on my phone, and thanks to Better Homes and Garden, I discovered the relentless flower was called the Lilly-of-the Valley. The article read:

At first glance you might not think the delicate looking blooms of lily-of-the valley are tough enough to handle the extremes of winter. But, nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, these fragrant beauties have a tough-as-nails constitution that shrugs off bone-chilling temperatures.

I immediately felt a kinship with the flower, because my entire 2018 has felt like an attempt to shrug off bone-chilling temperatures. The Lily-of-The-Valley and I might have a lot to talk about.

This year has been my toughest one yet, in every way imaginable. It’s been a hard one for me, and a hard one for some of the people I’m closest to, and I can confidently say that I am not sorry to see it go.

But, even with the shittiness of it all, the world decided it would do what it always does, and continue to move forward despite my feelings. Meaning in the midst of chaos, I went ahead and turned thirty-two years old.

I guess at thirty-two, you are far enough along to realize that life is complicated, and years can’t always be compartmentalized into little boxes labeled “good” and “bad.” Sure, some things might seem pretty straightforward while they’re happening — for example, I twisted my ankle = bad. Or, I got a promotion at work = good. 

Even with those obvious examples, it’s not always so cut and dry. A twisted ankle could mean we avoid going for a run the next day that would have lead to an even worse injury (hey, who knows) and a promotion could lead to being forced to work alongside someone that makes our lives miserable on a daily basis.

We have no way of knowing how an event might redirect our lives down a path we never imagined for ourselves, or what on the surface feels like the worst thing that ever happened to us ends up catapulting us into a type of personal growth we never would have experienced otherwise.

We just don’t know. We do know that shitty times suck, and at the very least they lead us to appreciate those things in life that bring us lightness and joy more than ever before.

That’s the thought that carried me through a year of difficulty. I can’t control my outside circumstances, but I can control how I react to them. How I grow, maintain, or simply wilt in the face of extreme weather is largely my choice, and my choice alone.

Throughout a year of turmoil, I survived by doing things that I knew brought me joy, even when doing them felt pointless or painful. I trained for and completed my first Olympic triathlon. I started teaching myself piano. I went to a meditation class by myself. I flew to Chicago to celebrate the first birthday of my best friend’s daughter. I saw Beyoncé blow up the stage with her amazingness live and in person. I finally went to the San Juan Islands in an attempt to see orcas after years of dreaming about it. I visited my family. I wrote. I drew. I ran. I travelled.

And that’s it. That is what 2018 taught me in spectacular fashion. There are so many ways to deal with difficulty, and all that matters is you learn to take care of yourself in the way that works best for you, that keeps you grounded with an open heart, regardless of what storm is howling around you.

This way, anytime you face a cold season, you can continue to become stronger with a deeper understanding of yourself, so that you’re able to sustain and maybe even grow during the coldest winters.

So here’s a reluctant yet grateful cheers to tough times and 2018, and to everyone who experiences the hard stuff and finds a way through (pretty sure that’s just about the whole planet) — we couldn’t become our best selves without you.

Nobody said you have to look cool while doing it, though.

1 Comment · Labels: Life

January 7, 2018

A Year of Being the New Kid

January 7, 2018

Sitting down to write this, I thought a lot about what this year was for me; a year of transitions? A year of figuring it all out? I guess it was a year of moving — but maybe it is more accurate to say it was one of settling? 2017 was all of those things, but ultimately, I landed on the one thing I kept coming back to: A Year of Being the New Kid.

Growing up, we were never the family that moved around a lot. In my first 18 years of life, I only moved once, and it was to a house 2.5 miles away from the previous house. I never switched schools in the middle of my formative years, or joined an athletic team half-way through the season.

My only prominent memory of being the new kid was from when I was 10 years old, and I had graduated from the “Blue” team to the coveted “Yellow” team in gymnastics. I still remember feeling so intimidated on my first day of practice as I walked up to meet my new teammates. They stood there in a circle laughing with each other, adorned in their matching felt leotards, and I was suddenly acutely and painfully aware of the fact that they already had months of inside jokes and sleepovers under their belts.

It took me weeks before I stopped feeling like an outsider, and could actually walk into practice without my stomach tied in knots. All that to say that being the new kid is not a role that I am all that familiar with — or good at.

You would think that someone who loves travel and adventure, and has spent the better part of a decade trying to throw herself into unfamiliar environments and different cultures would relish in new situations, whatever they might be.

The truth is, the impermanent nature of travel is part of what makes it so appealing for me. When you’re constantly bouncing around from one city to the next, you don’t really have to worry about forming relationships, or building any semblance of a stationary life. There is a huge part of me that craves that type of a lifestyle — because you get to be as selfish as you want to be at all times. In travel, you’re basically always the new kid, but you never stick around long enough for it to matter.

When we moved to Colorado this year, everything felt new. At first, it was exciting and fresh in the same way it felt on our trip when we would arrive to a new city for the first time and throw down our backpacks, eager to dive into whatever new surrounding we were in that day. On our trip, we moved around an average of every 3 days, and we jokingly feared we had become so accustomed to moving at that pace, that anything different would be boring.

What really happened was that adjusting to the move felt like an extended state of limbo. Here we were, living in a new state, in a new part of the country, navigating new jobs and a completely new life that we were still trying to fit ourselves into.

 

This is how you do it, right?

 

The whole new-kid thing really got me on one beautiful sunny day in July, and I decided to attempt road biking for the first time. I went as far to deck myself out in that tight, sleek matching riding gear that I used to think only professional bike racers wore, really embracing that whole “fake it ’til you make it” philosophy. At this point, we had been living in Colorado for a little over two months, and I had just started my new job. I was trying to blow off some energy, and give my brain a rest from spending hours with my face scrunched in front of my computer for the first time in months.

I felt euphoric as I flew by stretches of farmland, music pumping in my ears and the rocky mountains rising in front of me. I was even wearing those shoes that clip into the pedals, and if that didn’t make me official, then I was pretty sure nothing would.

I eventually hit a red light on a busy intersection and with one free, unclipped leg — scooted my way up to the nearest sidewalk so I could rest my right foot on the curb. I waited a few beats before the light turned green. I slowly began to pump the wheel with my left leg while trying to place my right leg firmly back into the clip. Except, there was a problem. Each time I placed my foot onto the pedal, the pedal would spin out of control, leaving me unable to line up my shoe with the metal clip. I moved at a snails pace, while wobbling and swerving the front of my bike in an effort to keep myself from collapsing. My right foot flung out into the air each time it missed the pedal.

Experienced bikers flew past me, and cars honked impatiently as I tried to complete my left-hand turn. I felt like one of those weeble wobble toys, tipping dramatically from side to side for all to see as they waited for this biking disaster to get out of their way. I nearly fell into the middle of the road, before I finally managed to clip my foot in and sheepishly pedal my way to the nearest curb to take a breather.

I wanted to shout “I’m New!” to all the frustrated drivers and bikers staring at me. In that moment, I had never felt more like a newbie at life. All of the things I was trying to figure out with my new life seemed to flood me as I stood on the side of that curb, cursing the clips.

I didn’t know how to navigate the biking world of the mountains. I didn’t know what the hell I was doing at my new job. I got lost driving nearly 80% of the time. I wore the wrong shoes hiking. I didn’t know anyone. I didn’t even have a go-to place to eat anymore. I had almost no sense of familiarity in any aspect of my life. This was completely different from figuring out a new country or culture. Because I lived here now. I had chosen this as my life, and I wasn’t going to leave in 3 days to fumble my way through something new.

 

Could photo taking while biking have contributed to my terrible biking skills?

In a way, that sort of sums up 2017 for me. At times it was like I was literally learning how to ride a bike again. Every phase of the year was so different from the last, looking back it almost felt like we crammed a decade into one year. From travelling the world, to moving across the country, starting new jobs and celebrating our friends and families bringing new life into the world; 2017 was a year of firsts.

Somehow through all the chaos and movement and uncertainty, it all came together. Being the new kid was awkward, bumpy and confusing at times — but it was such an important year for laying down the track to where I want the direction of my life to go.

The trick for me was to embrace the newness of it all and challenge myself to enjoy every minute of it, even the tough ones.

 

Thankfully, I did get a few things right in the end.

2 Comments · Labels: Life

May 27, 2017

Landing in Louisville

May 27, 2017

One thing to get out of the way:

  1. It’s pronounced Lou-is-ville, unlike its better known counterpart, Louisville, Kentucky (pronounced Lou-ie-ville).

Just a little summary to get up to speed. Last year, we quit our jobs, our lives, and our great city of Chicago to travel the world. Then, we came back, and landed temporarily in Florida, while still exploring more of the United States. Amidst all the transition, travel, and chaos, the time had come to choose a place to live.  A place to put down roots, and one that we hopefully wouldn’t want to leave three years down the line to quit everything and hit the road again.

Returning ‘home’ with no jobs, and no obligations left us in an unusual situation where we were faced with unlimited choices. We could live anywhere we wanted. Our opportunities were basically endless. I guess you could say this is true no matter where you are or what stage of life you’re in, but it feels more tangible when you have already gone through the process of cutting all of your ties.

We spent the last year roaming some of the most beautiful places (in my opinion) on this planet. How do you land on just one place to settle down once you have fallen in love with places like this?

Before leaving Chicago, we had a strong inkling that we would end up in Colorado, but beyond that, we didn’t worry about it too much and just left it as a decision to be made when the time came.

Well, the time came about a month ago, and Al and I landed at Denver International Airport with nothing but our two giant travel backpacks and a pre-booked Airbnb rental. We left ourselves with exactly one-week to find an apartment and move in. The reality sunk in hard the moment we walked up to the arrivals curb and stood waiting for our Uber. As we waited, I took a deep breath and felt the new air fill my lungs, while my eyes scanned the top of the rocky mountain range. I had to remind myself that this was my home now, and I had no idea what was out there.

Prior to moving here a month ago, I had been to Colorado only two times, each for very short weekend visits. I had spent a total of seven days in the state that I was now hoping to commit to for life, without much knowledge of Denver and its surrounding neighborhoods.

Our first day of apartment hunting, I started to feel discouraged. With each neighborhood we drove through, something just wasn’t clicking and I could feel the doubt start creeping in. Al and I both reluctantly admitted to each other that we were having the same thought: Are we making the right decision? 

This move was always an integral part of the long-term plan of making this big life change. The whole point was to leave behind a lifestyle we had outgrown, spend some time traveling the world, and then ultimately re-settle in a place we really loved. Feeling these doubts on our first day of searching for a home was very concerning for both of us, because under no circumstances were we willing to compromise on where we lived. We had come too far to settle now.

Al and I decided to call it quits on day one, and go back to our Airbnb and get some much needed rest from weeks of going non-stop. I hoped we would wake up feeling refreshed with a new perspective.

The next day, we decided to refocus our search in just two areas: Boulder and a town about 15 minutes outside of Boulder called Louisville. I had once seen a picture of this town in an old 100 Best Companies To Work For edition of Outside Magazine, and it had stuck with me.

When we drove down South Boulder Road on our way to look at an apartment, the beautiful Flatirons rose up in front of us, and I knew almost instantly that this would be home. We found an apartment right on the border of Louisville and Broomfield that morning, and moved in two days later.

We have only been living here for about two weeks, but so far I already can’t imagine living anywhere else. I realize thats a pretty bold statement to make 14 days in, but here are the top 5 reasons why I am loving Louisville:

 

1. Downtown Louisville

 

Originally a mining town in the 1800’s.

 

We knew we no longer wanted to live somewhere with a major city feel, but we still wanted access to the same type of conveniences and perks a city has; shopping, local restaurants, breweries, grocery stores, those types of things. Basically we wanted to have our cake and eat it, too. A major selling point for choosing our place was that it was only a quick 7 minute drive to historic downtown Louisville.

Downtown Louisville feels like stepping back in time into the 1950’s. Everyone is on bikes, and the people are so happy and friendly, it is borderline suspicious. Al and I have already made several trips to try out various restaurants and lazily thumb our way through old bookstores.

 

The main strip.

 

Home of the Best. Cookie. Ever.

 

Our brunch spot.

 

 

 

The first place we tried in Downtown Louisville.

 

Howdy Partner.

 

2. Boulder

 

Mom and I hiking in Boulder on a cloudy day.

Downtown Louisville is the perfect weekly neighborhood hang out for us, but another huge bonus of living where we do is that we are only a 13 minute drive to the beautiful and busy city of Boulder. Boulder is at the base of the foothills, nestled right in the valley where the Rockies meet the Great Plains.

Boulder is the perfect place for us to go if we need a real city fix: it has everything you could possibly need, not to mention it is the jumping off point to some of the most beautiful and scenic hikes in the Western United States.

When Al and I visited Colorado in 2015, we stayed in Boulder, and I remember thinking at the time that it seemed like an unattainable place to live. Never in my wildest dreams did I think that I would one day have the whole of Boulder at my fingertips to explore whenever I desired.

 

Views from another Boulder hike.

 

You can see University of Boulder to the right.

3. Endless Mountain views

 

!!

I was raised in Indiana, and then moved to Illinois, two of the top 10 flattest states in the United States. In Indiana, we had a lot of great things, but we didn’t have beaches, or mountains, or any stunning natural landscapes. For an Indiana girl, being able to walk out of my front door every morning and instantly be hit in the face with the Rocky Mountains, is not something that I will ever take for granted.

Before moving to Colorado, I was nervous as to how I would adjust having to drive everywhere. I don’t particularly enjoy driving, and I had grown so used to the ease of public transportation and accessibility of living in Chicago. I feared that having to get in a car every time I needed to pick up toilet paper from the store would begin to feel tedious.

How wrong I was. If there was a list of ‘top 10 most beautiful cities to drive around in and pick up toilet paper,’ I am certain that Louisville would land at number one. Living here, I actually find myself looking forward to getting out and going on drives, which is something I never thought would happen. Wherever I go, the mountains are there to greet me.

 

Typical driving view in Louisville.

 

Window view on the way to Downtown Louisville.

 

4. Wide Open Spaces & the Great Outdoors

 

I’ve started calling this ‘Dad’s Red Barn’ every time I refer to it.

 

You probably shouldn’t move here if you don’t like the outdoors, because it’s sort of Colorado’s thing. It was also one of the major reasons we chose to move here. Towards the end of my time in Chicago, I started to constantly feel cooped up and restless, no matter how nice the weather outside was. My mind and body was craving time out in nature. I also found myself becoming more irritable by the crowds and pace of the city.

I wrote this post back in 2015 to whine about all the things about city life that were no longer working for me. Reading it now, it is clear that we picked a place to live that offsets that entire post, point for point. Living here, we have constant access to nature, and all the wide open spaces we could possibly need. I can be in the mountains and on a hike within 20 minutes of leaving my house. I also never have to fight off crowds to get my groceries on a Monday evening.

We also have an actual farm in our backyard, filled with dozens of horses and cows grazing at all hours of the day. If that wasn’t enough, the farm is located right next to a giant tree that is home to an entire family of bald eagles. These are things that maybe wouldn’t mean so much to most people but provide endless excitement for us, because it is something we have been craving but never had before.

 

Our backyard horses.

 

The Eagle Has Landed.

 

A coyote Al spotted on our complex.

 

Every night, we try to walk outside of our apartment to watch the sunset over the mountains.

 

Because, this.

 

 

 

5. Travel as a Lifestyle and a Mindset

 

I have to admit that there was a big part of me that was reluctant to ‘settle down.’ I was enjoying our nomad lifestyle so much, that I started to panic a little bit at the thought of sleeping in the same place for months and years on end. At the end of our trip, I didn’t really feel that feeling of relief or desire to slow down that I anticipated feeling. I didn’t miss having our own place, and felt a mild sense of dread at the thought of accumulating stuff again.

I even had a mini-breakdown over a set of knives.

Al and I had to start over from scratch with everything when moving here. We had gotten rid of nearly everything we owned, so one of our first tasks after securing an apartment was to get the basics. We started with kitchen supplies, which led to a 15 minute discussion as to whether we should get our knife set from Bed Bath and Beyond or Ikea, followed by an intensive internet search to consult online reviews.

Ultimately, we settled on a brand from Bed Bath & Beyond, picked it up and drove home to unload all of our new kitchen supplies. I stood over our counter and began placing our shiny new cutlery into their respective slots, when I was hit with the sudden urge to drop all of the knives, run out of the apartment, and never come back. In that moment, I didn’t want any of it: the knives, the new rug, the giant beige couch that had just been delivered. I wanted to send it all back, grab our backpacks and jump back on a plane to anywhere.

All of the stuff was starting to feel suffocating, as if it would all soon band against me and fuse together to form into steel handcuffs slowly weaving their way back around my wrists and ankles. It had felt so freeing to traipse around the world with nothing but what I carried on my back. The knives meant I was really committing to this new place, and this new life. It meant we were staying, and there was no turning back. I realize how dramatic this all sounds, but all it really meant was that the the fears and negative thoughts of my past were coming back to attack me when I least expected it.

I took this as a sign that I needed a break, so Al and I jumped in the car and headed to a nearby path where we hiked for an hour. This was all it took to wipe away the unfounded fears of my knife-attack. On the hike, I recognized that I still had some work to do in letting go of all the old baggage I was carrying around from my old life. I made a promise to myself to let it go, and do my best to focus on everything wonderful that was right in front of us.

The attitude and the lifestyle of living in Colorado is contagious. Everyone we have met so far has been kind, positive and friendly. When hearing that we are new to the area, they are always eager to welcome us to our new home, and quick to tell us with a grin that we now live in the best place on earth. I still can’t believe that this is where I live.

Every single day since moving to our new place (post knife attack), I have woken up excited to simply be here, just like I did waking up each morning while we were on the road. Feeling this way during our transition is reassurance to me that we are on the right path. After almost a year of flying around the world without a home, it feels good to finally land in Louisville.

 

9 Comments · Labels: Life

April 3, 2017

Around the World in 80 Kicks

April 3, 2017

About three weeks before we left on our trip, I was out for a run and in the middle of mentally checking off everything we still needed to get done before our departure, when a song called ‘There Will Be Time’ by Mumford and Sons popped up on my Spotify playlist. As I listened to the song, I felt an overwhelming sense of excitement wash over me. The checklist dropped out of my head, and was replaced with visions of us traveling around the world together. Various scenes that were yet to happen started flashing through my head as the song picked up, and I knew that I wanted to make a video to chronicle our trip using that song.

I wanted to take videos of us doing something in front of our favorite spots while we were traveling, but I didn’t know what. Al and I are absolutely terrible dancers, so we knew to immediately eliminate anything in that category. We settled on the only thing we could think of doing: The Montana Waltz. This may sound like a dance but our interpretation of it most definitely is not. Our version of the Montana Waltz more closely resembles two adolescent kids rapidly kicking each other in the shins.

Either way, that’s what we did. Every time we were in a particularly beautiful or interesting place, one of us would inevitably say, ‘Should we do our kicks here?’ and then would whip out the GoPro. Each time was different. Often strangers would be around and start cheering or laughing, sometimes neither of us were into it and the result was a slow and painful half-assed attempt at doing the waltz. There were times the terrain was particularly difficult to bounce around on, and one of us (usually me) would end up falling. There were even weeks when we forgot to do it at all. But in the end, I’m so glad we did it, because we’ll have this video to look back on for the rest of our lives.

So here it is, our final travel video: two fools kicking each other around the world.

 

 

2 Comments · Labels: Life, Travel

March 27, 2017

So Now What?

March 27, 2017

We have been back in the U.S. for a bit now, and I have sat down to write a post reflecting on the end of our trip and the transition home about 100 times. I usually end up giving up, finding myself unable to string together the right words, or collect my thoughts in an articulate enough way to pull it all together.

Part of the reason for my lack of wrap-up is that we haven’t stopped moving since we have gotten back. Just days after we arrived home, we unexpectedly found ourselves back at the airport. In the weeks since we have been back, we have squeezed in trips to New Orleans, Savannah, St. Augustine, Atlanta, and Chicago. We also have been lucky enough to spend some time celebrating friends and family members who are going through their own big life changes.

Life has continued to do what it does best, which is go on. And it all feels so weirdly normal.

 

It wouldn’t feel normal without the weirdness of my family.

 

Streets of NOLA.

 

This trip and the inevitable upheaval of our carefully built life in Chicago previously filled in all of the empty spaces of my mind and my heart. Before the trip, when I would be walking somewhere to complete some random errand, I would be thinking about traveling. At night, when I couldn’t fall asleep, I would imagine Al and I wandering around somewhere in the world. When I was stuck waiting in a line or sitting with my mouth propped open at the dentist’s office, I would pass the time by day-dreaming of all the adventures we would eventually go on.

And now, after all that, it is done. We did it.

We completed a long-term goal together, hiked a bunch of mountains, splashed around in various oceans, saw some new countries, ate and drank in front of different world backgrounds, and met some new people. But…So what?

 

I mean, yeah I got to pretend like I was a giant smashing tiny mushroom villages but SO WHAT?!

 

Now that the dust is finally starting to settle, and the reality has sunk in that the trip is over, I have asked myself some of the following questions: Did it really make that big of a difference? Do I really feel any different than I did a year ago? Won’t I just slowly go back to doing the same things I was doing before now? How does this really matter in the long run?

I don’t ask myself these questions to belittle anything that we did or have done, but I ask them because I realize this point in our transition is an important one. It would be all too easy to have an experience like the one we had, come back, and continue to go on with life as if it was all a distant dream. If I am unable to identify and internalize what I got out of this experience and how I want it to use it to impact the rest of my life, then I might as well have not done it all.

If all I wanted out of all of this was a collection of cool experiences, then a few really fun vacations would have accomplished that. Our trip has already started to slowly fade into its new place as a past memory, settling comfortably into the coveted ‘best times of my life’ category. As difficult as it was to watch it change from a current experience into a past one, I have come to accept it (because what other choice do I have?)

 

So smug with her giant beer and perfect view.

 

So… what happens now?

Now that we have returned, it has been a challenge figuring out how to sort it all out. How do I even begin to process what just happened? It can become overwhelming, and the urge to ignore it and just move on to the ‘next thing’ starts to win over.

I shared this dilemma with my parents, and they presented me with a challenge.

They asked me to come up with three different words that would describe and summarize my experience. The first word would correspond with how I felt prior to going on our trip, the second word would summarize how I felt during our trip, and the final word would correlate with where I am now, now that it’s all over and I have accomplished everything I set out to do. I could only choose one word to describe how I felt during each phase.

It sounds like a simple exercise, but it wasn’t easy for me to boil down so much emotion and experience into a single word. It was the perfect way for me to cut through all of the chaos and various emotions that were flying around, and get to the heart of what this whole thing means.

 

Pre Trip: Hopeful

 

Walking out the door on our way to the airport, to get this whole thing started. The smile says hope: the protruding neck vein says fear.

 

I wrote this post the day we left on our trip, and I asked the question that had been floating around in my mind at the time:

What if it isn’t what we thought it would be? What if the dream of this trip is better than the reality?

We were deliberately choosing to uproot ourselves and take an uncertain road. I knew from experience that choosing to take these huge dramatic leaps in life do not always pan out the dreamy way you hope they do. I also knew I would miss my friends, my family, my cats, and even having a steady paycheck. My life as I knew it at the time would change forever. But when it came down to it, I could see a clear picture of what I really wanted my life to look like, and it was nothing like the life I was currently living.

I hoped that it would be worth it, but I also knew that there was no way I could know for sure unless I just got up and did it, already. I knew that we would have some difficult times, and that we would likely have to start back over in building our lives when we returned.  I felt so stuck with where I was, but I could no longer ignore the pull to do this trip. I figured that it was better to move without having the answers or all of the pieces in place, then to stay stagnant in a situation that was most certainly wrong for me.

So, before the trip I was hopeful, but there was still fear. I would even say my fears and apprehension were making me cautiously hopeful, but since I was only allowed one word, I settled on hopeful.

 

During the Trip: Free

 

 

 

On the third day of our trip, Al and I were on a drive from Ljubljana to Maribor, when we unexpectedly got stuck in a two hour traffic jam. The second that our car pulled to a halt in the line of traffic, every single person in the cars surrounding us opened their doors and stepped outside. Instantly, everyone started chatting with each other.  Some people went on walks with their dogs, others pulled out a deck of cards or opened up the back of their trunks to hang out of their back seats. Al and I couldn’t believe what we were seeing. At first, I was so taken aback by this that I was convinced we somehow got caught up in a giant family reunion caravan. What is wrong with these people?! Why aren’t they angrily honking on their horns, or pulling out their cell phones, or shouting at each other complaining about how busy they are and how they don’t have time for this?!

When my instant reaction during a traffic jam was to be annoyed; Slovenians used it as an opportunity to accept their reality, and relax into it. I decided to follow their example, so I opened up the book I was reading, and hung my feet out of the passenger window. Al pulled out a puzzle and went to work on it. Occasionally, I would stand outside of the car to feel the sun, or to stretch my legs.

This day was when the feeling of freedom first truly hit me. In a traffic jam of all places. I realized that I had no reason to hurry anywhere, and that life was happening to me right now. I felt completely content with the moment I was in, and I knew that time didn’t matter. Eventually we would get where we were headed. Somehow, here I was in SLOVENIA, on a road trip with my husband. I had nothing ahead of me but freedom, adventure, and choice.

This feeling continued to radiate throughout the rest of the trip. I attribute my focus and awareness of this feeling to the reason why I was able to enjoy every moment, and every destination, no matter what went wrong along the way.

What I failed to consider prior to leaving on our trip, was the possibility that it could actually be better than our dreams. The reality-version actually somehow outperformed the dream-version. No matter what happened or where we went, I was free.

 

Post Trip: Grateful 

 

Daily trips to the beach and family are definitely things to be grateful for.

 

When my parents asked me this three-word summary question, I had to really think about the word that best described the post-trip period. It was still so fresh, so I struggled with how to capture it in one word.

As I was thinking, I looked out to the right of our table, and saw nothing but white sand and a shining ocean staring back at me, and my first thought was: I can’t believe this is my life. 

Just the week before that moment, I was walking through tea fields in Sri Lanka, and watching families of wild Asian Elephants roam through grasslands. Now here I was sitting at an oceanside restaurant with my family, talking about life.

I felt so thankful for where we were in that moment, but even more so for the chance I had to see so much the world and travel freely on my own terms.  I felt so thankful for the hundreds of memories Al and I created together and will now share for the rest of our lives.

But time has passed from that first week back and now, and things have shifted as the trip moves farther away from the present. I haven’t stopped being grateful, but it feels important to say that even with all the good, it has not all been perfect or easy.

Doing something like this does not come without challenges and hardships. There has been what may seem like a never-ending montage of beautiful places and adventures, but along with that, there are difficult times that manage to wedge their way in more often than I would like. In coming home, there is doubt, frustration, isolation, and heaviness that inevitably attach themselves to this huge life transition. These feelings can be hard, even when they are a result of a self-inflicted change. This is the time when things start to get bumpier, and when life begins to really challenge how well we can apply the lessons we have been learning along the way.

What I have realized now is that this trip is actually not about the hundreds of memories we collected, or stories we now share together, nor is it about the mountains climbed or the destinations we discovered.  The impact from this trip is not going to come from those things, but instead it comes from the fact that we did it at all. 

When you really commit doing something in your life that feels scary, uncertain, or risky, it becomes the first move in a series of shifts that can impact your whole life. It is the choice of courage over fear, which are basically the two options we are faced with when making any type of decision. Now that Al and I have done this together, we have set a precedent for the choices we make in our lives moving forward. We can now move more confidently in choosing courage over fear every single time, regardless of the difficult things that may come along with it.

Post-trip life has been all about handling transition, but I chose grateful as my word because it is the only word that can describes what it feels like after months of living out a dream.

 

 

 

So, that’s where we are at now. As far as what comes next, I’ll save that for another post (which basically means that I have no idea).

 

4 Comments · Labels: Life, Travel

January 1, 2017

A Year Of Doing

January 1, 2017

Last year, I wrote this post to summarize 2015: A Year of Waiting. 

Looking back at what I wrote at the end of 2015 brings to light just how much has changed in the past 365 days. If that was my year of waiting, it can only mean that 2016 was my year of doing. 

Almost everywhere I look on the internet, everyone is rejoicing in the fact that 2016 is over – and I will agree that it was a really really weird year for the world. But for me personally, it was the best I have ever had. This was the year I stopped doubting myself. I practiced thinking less, and doing more. This might not make sense for many people, but as a chronic over-thinker and over-analyzer, it was exactly the adjustment I needed in order to move forward from where I was.

One of the biggest light-bulb moments in 2016 for me came from my father. In early 2016, Al and I were still going back and forth about making the leap to go on this life changing trip around the world. We hadn’t fully committed to a concrete plan, and we were still considering alternative, less extreme options. We were even tossing around the idea of pushing the trip off for another year. I was still agonizing over all the ‘what ifs’ of quitting our lives in Chicago, and just could not bring myself to pull the trigger. One evening in late April, I decided to FaceTime with my Dad for advice. After listening patiently to my worries for what was probably the dozenth time, he just said simply,

“You need to make a decision and move on. What you are doing right now is not working for you, so you need to either accept it, or change it. Make the decision and stick with it, but don’t keep questioning yourself once you do. If it is not working out, you’ll know, and you’ll adjust your path again. The important thing is that you try, but when you do, make sure you fully commit to it.”

I don’t know what it was about this specific advice, but it was the exact thing I needed to hear. It was like an immediate weight was lifted off of my shoulders. I realized I already knew the answer, but I was making things so much harder than they needed to be.  After I got off FaceTime with my dad, Al and I booked our first hotel stay abroad, and the following day we booked our first flight to Ljubljana, Slovenia. I have not looked back or doubted our decision since that day.

I have used this thought process for almost everything we have done this year. From choosing what countries to go to, to what activities we do, to where we go for dinner. I allow myself to think about it briefly, and then make a decision based on what feels right. I do not let myself go back and forth any longer than is necessary, and it has been the catalyst I needed to let go of all of the fear and doubt, and move into my year of doing. Because my dad is right. If it is not working out, I can always change it.

It feels rewarding to look back on that post from last year, and realize that I have made some strides towards accomplishing the goal I set: to start enjoying and appreciating life now, and stop waiting for things to happen. I know 2017 is going to present a whole new crop of challenges to overcome and lessons to learn, but I have 2016 (and wise words from my Dad) to thank for giving me the strength to go into it head-first.

I will end with my favorite picture from 2016; the one that I feel best sums it all up:

 

Dancing and laughing in Ireland in the exact town of my ancestors, with my best friend and husband. A perfect moment I never could have imagined happening just a year prior.

 

Wishing everyone a happy 2017 full of growth and happiness! 

 

 

3 Comments · Labels: Life, Travel

November 2, 2016

Getting Back on the Bike

November 2, 2016

Our first two and a half months, we were going non-stop in the Balkans and the UK, moving every 2-3 days.  In Europe, every location, every route, and every Airbnb had been pre-planned (by us) before we left the US.  This is exactly how we wanted the road trip portion of our trip to be, and it was absolutely perfect.

We anticipated that by this point in our trip, we would be ready to switch things up in a major way. We wanted to give ourselves the opportunity to travel as slow or as quickly as we wanted, without being moved along by any previously made decisions.  Since we had no idea how we would feel at this point in our adventure (would we want to go home? Would we have blown through all of our savings?) we thought the best idea was to pick a region, and leave the rest wide open.  Travel without an agenda, and make the decisions as we go.

Enter Southeast Asia.

 

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Seems like a picture that would fit most people’s images of Asia, right?

 

Southeast Asia was the perfect choice for the next phase of our trip.  I’ve mentioned this already, but I lived and worked as an English teacher in Bangkok when I was 23, and when my contract was up,  I spent 7 weeks backpacking with friends through Vietnam, Singapore, Cambodia, Indonesia, and Malaysia.  You would think I had my fill of Southeast Asia after that, but instead it just left me wanting more.

7 weeks is not enough time to see these countries.  We whipped through them so fast, that it all feels like a blur when I look back on my time there.  There was so much I didn’t do and so much I didn’t see, that I knew I had to come back.  It also happened that Southeast Asia was at the top of Al’s bucket list; so the decision was made.

We decided to pre-book 3 days in Bangkok and a little over two weeks in Chiang Mai, to give ourselves time to slow down, adjust to our new surroundings, and figure out what our next move would be.

Even though I was beyond excited for our Southeast Asia phase, part of me was a little hesitant to return to Thailand, a place that I had already spent a significant amount of time in.  I struggled with the idea of re-treading old footsteps, when there were so many other places in the world I haven’t seen yet.  On top of that, I was wary about revisiting that time in my life. I mentioned it in this post, but my time living and working in Thailand was one of the most amazing experiences of my life, but also one of the most difficult.  For some inexplicable reason, I still felt a pull to return with Al.

When we arrived in Bangkok, I had no idea how I would feel; it has been almost seven years since I last stepped foot in this humid, hectic, insane city in Southeast Asia.  I kept reminding myself that once upon a time, in another life, I actually lived here.

As our taxi driver wove us through the freeways and traffic, I looked out the window trying to get a glimpse of something, anything, that would remind me of that fact.  Everything looked different, while somehow looking exactly the same.  No matter where I looked, I couldn’t orient myself.

That was how I felt all the time when I lived in Bangkok.  As much as I learned about the city, as much as I explored it, I never really understood Bangkok.  I could never position myself correctly (this may partly be due to my horrible sense of direction).  I would always look out on the skyline and just see a haze of grey smog floating over the seemingly random skyscrapers.  I have always been a fan of skylines, but I have never been a fan of this one.  I once wrote a blog post comparing the cities I had lived in to different types of relationships; and in this scenario, Bangkok was the ex-boyfriend that ate me up and spit me out.

If you can’t tell already,  I have a complicated relationship with Bangkok.  My time living here was one of the biggest growth periods of my life, but also one of the hardest (funny how that always seems to go hand in hand).

Once we were settled into our Airbnb, we decided to tackle some of Bangkok’s streets and markets, and I was overwhelmed with how familiar everything felt.

I can’t really explain it, but sometimes when you travel, you often feel like you leave little parts of yourself scattered around the world.  Essentially you are the same person, but when you move to a foreign country, you are in a state of constant adjustment.  Your personality is not necessarily exactly the same as it would be at home, because you are having to use different skills, different senses, different parts of your brain.  You are surviving and learning and trying to keep your head above water all at the same time (at least this is how it can often feel for me).  This inevitably brings out new parts of yourself, and your personality that you don’t access regularly when you are at home, because you don’t need to.

Walking around, I was hit with the smell of of grilled meats, hot garbage, curry spices, and car exhaust, all while randomly being dripped on by an unidentifiable liquid from above.  Every single part of it felt so familiar, yet so far away at the same time.

 

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We happened across a huge ceremony for the King, who recently passed away. The people of Thailand love their king as a collective, and are currently in a year-long mourning period (hence the black everywhere).

 

It is one of the most bizarre feelings I have ever had.  I could connect with my surroundings, because I had seen, smelled and experienced it all before.  But I could not connect with the person, the girl, that I was when I lived there.

One of my first thoughts was, how the hell did I ever live in a city like this?  I took Al around to my old neighborhood and regular spots, and the memories came flooding back.  I could remember myself walking around in my teacher uniform, jumping on the back of a motorbike to meet friends, ordering food like a local, using broken Thai to barter with a vendor who was trying to rip me off.  Was I ever really that person?

 

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Proof it happened: Hitting up my local 7-11 to blow of steam after a strenuous day of teaching.

 

It’s almost like 7 years ago me, and current me are two completely different people, but somehow I was able to access vague memories of that person.  I have never felt so disconnected from who I once was.  Remembering that time made me realize just how complacent I had become in my life since living in Bangkok, how little I have really challenged myself, or forced myself out of my comfort zone since then.

I am by no means glorifying the person I was at 23, or wishing that I was the same person I used to be.  There are so many things about my life and who I was that desperately needed to change.  I am glad to have grown as much as I have, but I didn’t fully realize how much I have changed until I walked the streets of Bangkok and could no longer connect with who I used to be.

It sounds cliché, but it was like I had shed an entire skin and grown a new exterior in those passing years.  Except, when I shed my previous skin, I forgot to hold onto the good parts.  The part of me that was fearless, independent, and chased every type of adventure.

I don’t know if it is just part of growing up, but I felt like that aspect of my personality had become completely dormant.  Over the years in Chicago, I became so settled in my routine and lifestyle that I rarely ventured outside of it, or sought out experiences that made me truly uncomfortable.  I stopped really trying.  As a result, I found myself feeling like I was sleepwalking through life at the ripe old age of 28.  Basically, I had become a little too comfortable being comfortable.

After we left Bangkok, we flew to Chiang Mai for our gloriously long two week stint.  Since I had spent weeks training here before moving to Bangkok, I was flooded with even more memories upon our arrival. Chiang Mai is in the Northern hills, and the 2nd largest city in Thailand.  We had only three objectives to accomplish during our time in the North.  1) relax and recuperate from going non-stop  2) volunteer with elephants rescued from human abuse and slavery, and  3) explore Northern Thailand for an extended period of time by motorbike.  This area is infamous for its stunning mountainous scenery, and the best way to explore it is on a motorbike.  It is something I always dreamed of doing, but except for a few times, never had the chance to while living here.  It was something Al and I talked about doing together for years.

Except once we got into the city, I took one look at the insane traffic and started questioning everything.

I had completely forgotten how intense the driving was.  Hundreds of motorbikes weave in between cars and trucks, cutting each other off and darting around at all different speeds.  Dozens of bikes will form in clusters at once, and then when you least expect it, they will all randomly speed up to try and out run each other.   You have to constantly be on alert for stray dogs jutting out into the middle of the street.  Entire families (including pets) pile up and wobble to maintain balance on a single bike, everyone drives on the left, and roads turn and then turn again at random points, and there seems to be no clear cut set of rules for any of it.

 

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The calm before the storm: Once the light turns green, it’s every man and woman for themselves.

 

Once again, I found myself in shock. I could not believe that I had ever confidently navigated these streets on a motorbike by myself.  There was no way I was going to be able to do it now.  My heart rate started increasing just imagining myself trying to do it.  I spent all night mentally questioning if I could still do it, trying to avoid thinking about all of the worst possible outcomes.  I couldn’t even use the fact that I had successfully done it before to encourage myself, because I still felt like that person wasn’t really me.  That night, I had restless dreams where I tried to scrape Al off the sidewalk with a shovel after he dove off a cliff on his bike.  The fear had even worked its way into my subconscious.

The next day I woke up and I knew I had no choice.  I felt so frustrated with how much I was doubting myself that I simply had to prove that I was capable of doing this.  I knew there had to still be a part of me that believed in myself. I was tired of the back-and-forth doubt fueled mental battle I made myself endure each time I faced a new situation.  This time, I wouldn’t be as reckless and overly-confident (or stupid, as some might say) as I was at 23; I would be cautious and go slowly when I was nervous. I would take my time driving in the city, and make smart decisions.  But no matter what, I would still do it.

We headed straight to a nearby bike shop, Mr. Mechanic, the same place where I had rented a motorbike back in 2009.  They brought our two bikes around and the shop assistant looked at me in the eye and said, You’ve done this before, right?  Even though I was being honest, I still felt like I was lying when I nodded my head yes.

When I got on the bike and she handed me the key, I realized quickly that I had no idea how to turn it on.  ‘Can you just refresh me on how to start this?’   She eyed me suspiciously, probably mentally calculating how much it was going to cost to repair the bike after this crazy foreigner crashed it.

Hold the left break.  Turn the key.  Flip this switch.  Turn the handle.  Go. 

And so, I did.  Pulling out of Mr. Mechanic is the scariest part; you are jutting out onto the middle of one of the busiest roads in the center of the city.  Motorbikes, tuk-tuks, tourists, buses, cars, and bicycles are all fueled together, competing for space, and you have to be constantly alert to find your half-second opening to join them.  My heart was pounding for the first 15 minutes as I tried to remember how to lead us to Doi Suthep, our temple destination on top of a mountain a few miles out of the city.  I went slow at first, over correcting myself with every turn. I started getting more nervous as a light rain fell, but once we left the busy city streets behind and began to wind up the mountain, I slowly regained my confidence. Before long, riding my motorbike and navigating through the busy streets of Chiang Mai felt like second nature again.

We spent the next several days exploring everything northern Thailand has to offer by motorbike, and it has been one of the most fun and freeing experiences of my life.  We rode up winding mountain roads, and through rocky red dirt roads all while being chased by dogs and dodging wild chickens.  We drove through temples and past groups of monks drying their clothes out on the line.  While on our bikes we saw wild animals roaming, water buffalo wading in a shallow lake, and endless stretches of Thai farmers working rice fields.  We spotted a rainbow as we drove through pouring rain in the middle of some of the busiest intersections in Thailand, with the mountains all around us.

Throughout our biking adventure, I couldn’t help but grin every time Al and I would pull up next to each other at a red light, the heat from all of the surrounding engines blowing on my ankles, and one of us would inevitabley ask the other ‘what song is in your head right now?’  I know that these days will be some of my favorite memories from our trip for decades to come, and I wouldn’t have had any of it if I let the nervous voice in my head convince me I shouldn’t do it.

 

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View from Al’s helmet, driving out of the city as the crowds start to die down.

 

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Feeling free and confident (enough to hold a GoPro clearly) on the open roads

 

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We named our bikes Pokey and Bloo after Gumby characters.

 

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It’s so hard not to pull over every 5 seconds.

 

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This reminded me of Jurassic Park.

 

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Giant Golden Monk. All the cars honk at it when they pass as a sign of respect.

 

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Thai Energy Drink Ad. Many Thai people enjoyed watching us try to do this at the gas station.

 

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Farmers working the stunning land.

 

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Making me eat his dust, right before losing his sandal. Karma.

 

So, there it was.  Getting back on the bike was proof that I could still do it, and I hadn’t really lost the adventurous, confident part of myself that I once had in spades. I felt a surge of motivation knowing that this aspect of my personality wasn’t completely gone.

I think it was important for me to be here and experience this right now, to remember how to trust myself and my decisions.  Fear takes form in a million different ways, and can be so crippling if we let it take over.  It can prevent us from really experiencing things, and I can’t think of a worse way for me to live than in constant fear and doubt of something created in my own head.

Sometimes it is as simple as forcing yourself to get back behind the driver’s seat of a motorbike to realize that you are capable of doing anything.  (Except if you’re in Bangkok, because that’s just insane).

 

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6 Comments · Labels: Life, Thailand, Travel

October 5, 2016

Two Months on the Road: For the Love of the Balkans

October 5, 2016

Today officially marks the end of our two month road trip adventure. We have driven 3,790 miles across 7 countries, slept in 26 different Airbnbs, and have drank approximately 1.5 billion local beers. When we planned this trip, I genuinely thought that there was a chance we would be burnt out at the two month mark, and would be feeling ready to come home after moving around non-stop. I most likely would have been intimidated to see those numbers (except maybe the beer one).

Instead, I feel like we are just getting started. I know we have the Balkans to thank for that. Driving through these countries reminded me just how much beauty this world has to offer, and that I want to see as much of it it while I can.

Using the perfect excuse (once again) to avoid trying to write a wrap up post, here’s a video that will do a better job:

 

 

 

PS – We made a video to highlight our first month traveling through Slovenia and Croatia, and in case you missed it, you can see it here. I’ve also added a tab to my homepage that puts all of our travel videos in one easy to find spot. Hopefully we’ll keep adding to the collection!

10 Comments · Labels: Life, Travel

October 3, 2016

Shades of Sarajevo

October 3, 2016

It all started with a book.

Before we left the US, I got a text from my sister: ‘You need to read the book Goodbye, Sarajevo before you leave for the Balkans. I couldn’t put it down and finished it in one day.’

I take advice from both of my sisters very seriously, so I immediately downloaded it on my kindle and vowed to read it as soon as possible.

Instead, I read two ‘fluff books’ first, to ease me back into regular reading again. After we had crossed over into Croatia, I decided I needed to crack open Goodbye, Sarajevo now, or else I never would. I read it in one sitting, and it changed everything.

Goodbye, Sarajevo is a memoir of two sisters who survived the Bosnian war. The main writer, Atka, is a Sarajevo native, and survives war and genocide within the city of Sarajevo, Bosnia. The city was under siege by Serbian troops from 1992-1996. For four long and painful years, the cosmopolitan city that had hosted the winter olympic games just 8 years prior, was blockaded, shot at, and destroyed. It is the longest siege of a city in modern history.

Reading Goodbye, Sarajevo in our first week of travel opened the flood gates, and I had to know everything. I devoured everything I could get my hands on about the former Yugoslavia.

As we travelled through Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia, Macedonia, Kosovo, and Serbia, I was learning everything for the first time, while simultaneously seeing it all come to life in front of my eyes.

I touched on it in this post, but our time in Mostar was eye-opening. At that point in our trip, I was just beginning to learn about how extreme the horrors directed at Bosnian Muslims were. Arriving to Mostar, I had experienced a beautiful city that had visible traces of a recent war, but that was being rebuilt even stronger.

I expected to have a similar experience in Sarajevo. I of course, was wrong.

Sarajevo was the first time I really asked myself, What am I doing here? How did I get here? I wasn’t asking it to myself because I felt lost, unwelcome, or unsafe in Sarajevo. I meant it in the most literal way possible. As much as I tried, I could not make sense of how the dots of my life had somehow connected to lead me to be in this place at this time, in order to have this specific experience.

Logistically, I knew how I came to be there. I bought a flight, I rented a car, I booked an Airbnb. That is how I physically got to be where I was, but there was so much more to it that I couldn’t grasp. We had practically booked our Balkan road trip on a whim. At best, we hoped to drive through some really pretty scenery, and explore some new places. Now I can see that there was so much more for us to experience than we ever could have anticipated. I tend to believe that life is a series of lessons, and I knew that somehow, I was in the middle of learning an important one.

I kept trying to understand: Why am I seeing all of this? Why am I learning all of this?  Sarajevo is not a city that you can just show up to and not be impacted by what you see. It practically forces these questions to the front of your mind.

Sarajevo was the pinnacle of our trip for for me in so many ways, and our first day was a really heavy one. I felt like I was engulfed in the darkness of what we were learning.

After that rough first day, I woke up the next morning thinking of something our Airbnb host had said,

“You can not believe, even if you had seen it with your own eyes the things that happened here. The war was horrible. But, we are not in war anymore. Sarajevo is a beautiful city once again. We are moving on, but never forgetting.” 

Our experience in Sarajevo happened in two parts; I call them the darkness and the light.

 

Day 1: The Darkness

 

The Aftermath of the towns and Cemetary Hill

 

Driving through Bosnia and into the city, you absolutely cannot escape the heavy reality of what happened to the Bosnian people 20 years ago.

I knew from my research that most of the towns we were driving through on the way from Serbia to Sarajevo had been victim to some of the worst atrocities during the war. Towns were set on fire, and hundreds of thousands were forced from their homes which they had been in for generations. Entire towns of muslim women and men were rounded up into large groups, shoved into community buildings, and showered with bullets. Afterwards, the bodies were piled onto trucks and thrown into mass graves somewhere within the Bosnian hills. To this day, they are still trying to find more of these graves. Thousands of people still have not found the remains of their family members.

We drove past the town of Srebrenica, where in 1995, an estimated 8,000 Bosnian muslims, mostly men and boys, were mass executed in the span of a few hours, just days before the town was liberated.

I was of course horrified to read about what happened in Bosnia, but it had a completely different impact to drive through the country and see it firsthand. Every other building we saw was either abandoned, nearly burned down, completely covered with bullet holes, or all three.

 

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It was haunting to see these abandoned and destroyed homes line every single highway and street we drove past. It brought to the forefront just how total the destruction and death had been to these people. With each house we saw, I wondered, where are these people now? Were they killed? Did they escape?

As we drove into the heart of Sarajevo, the first thing we saw were the hills of Sarajevo that were covered in white tombs. Sarajevo is built in the bottom of a beautiful valley. However, the placement of the city made it easy for Serb soldiers to surround and siege the city. Every single hill had once been occupied with soldiers or snipers, who shelled and shot at the city for years.

They lost so many people during the siege, that they no longer had space to bury their dead. They buried them where they could, which meant up the hills, in stadiums and even under tennis courts. We walked past these hills and every single death date on the tombs read between 1993-1999. Most people buried were between the ages of 20-50.

 

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Along the streets of Sarajevo, you can also see the ‘Sarajevo Roses’ which are craters formed in the concrete as a result of a fatal motor shell explosion. An artist filled in many of these craters with red resin throughout the city to honor the victims, so they would not be forgotten.

I carried a bag filled with food and wine, ready to spend the rest of the night in the comfort our our Airbnb, as I walked past the Sarajevo roses and graveyards filled with the bodies of thousands who died a brutal and unjust death.  Here I was in the city that had belonged to them, experiencing the most simple of pleasures of which they were so ruthlessly denied.

 

The shot that started a war

 

After walking down the hill, we headed to the famous Latin Bridge. It was this spot in Sarajevo where the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand and his wife took place in 1914. It was the event that propelled the entire world into a state of war, sparking the events of WWI. And it all started on this little bridge in the city of Sarajevo.

 

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The Latin Bridge.

 

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It is hard to understand when you are in Sarajevo, why this unassuming spot in the world has been center stage for so many major events in our world history. I thought back to a podcast that we had listened to in the car, where a native Sarajevan sarcastically remarked, “We have more history than we can stand.”

 

Srebenica and learning a lesson the hard way

 

After visiting the Latin Bridge, we decided to wander the streets and enjoy the city before heading back to our Airbnb to rest. After walking for a few minutes, we accidentally stumbled upon the entrance to the Srebrenica Genocide Memorial, and knew we had to go in. We learned that this memorial is the first memorial/museum in Bosnia dedicated to lives lost in the war. I would definitely recommend a visit here if you’re in Sarajevo.

We spent hours walking around and learning about the terrible things that happened through powerful images, and through moving first-hand interviews. We became completely engulfed in the memorial, and lost track of the time. We realized night had fallen, and decided it was time to leave. We left the memorial feeling completely heartbroken by the unimaginable things that people can do to one another.

As we were leaving, it was dark outside, and I expressed what I was thinking to Al as we turned a corner. I remember saying, “I don’t understand how the international community, and so many other people can sit back and do nothing as they watched their friends and neighbors be murdered. How can you just do nothing?”

As I said the words, I noticed that Al had stopped walking beside me. I turned back and saw him walking up to a woman who seemed to be struggling with something. At first, I thought he was trying to help her, but I then I slowly started to see what was really happening.

This woman was in the middle of trying to shove a stray dog into a small slit of a hanging trash can. In the darkness, I saw that she was carrying a large wooden stick, and as she walked away, the dog struggled to escape the trash can.

I became frozen with shock. I was then instantly jolted into awareness when Al began yelling at the woman, and I immediately headed towards the trash can where the dog struggled to break free. The woman turned around and raised her stick in the air towards Al, ready to swing, while shouting in a foreign language. Before I could make it to the dog, he jumped out of the trash can and onto the pavement, and ran right back up to the woman who had thrown him away like a piece of garbage just moments before.

She walked across the street, and the dog loyally followed her, seemingly oblivious to what she had just tried to do. Al and I kept our distance after she raised the stick, but we didn’t know what to do. We felt an overwhelming need to get the dog away from her. So, we followed her.

We followed her down the street and into an long dark alley. We wanted to make sure she wouldn’t try to harm the dog any further, and to try and lure him away from her if possible. As we tried to get closer to the dog, my heart began to pound. Al walked up right behind her and the dog began barking wildly.

Thoughts started racing through my head – what else is in this alley? What if she tries to hit us again? What if she has a real weapon? What if the dog attacks us? Where should we take the dog if we manage to get ahold of him?

Before the woman noticed, the dog turned and began following someone else. We ducked behind a corner out of eyesight from the woman, and continued to watch until she faded out of sight, to make sure the dog was safe, and that nothing happened.

After this happened we were both stunned and disgusted with what we had seen. We both were speechless with disbelief and began walking back home. As soon as we got back on the main road, we heard the wailing screams of a child.

We passed a driveway at the exact moment that a mother was bent over, screaming at her four year old boy sitting on a bike. His face was red and puffy, and I looked over just in time to see the mother raise her hand and with a forceful blow, slap her son across the face. This sent the little boy into a fresh wave of hysterics.

Once again I froze, and my internal dialogue took over, Should you do something? Should you say something? You can’t even speak the language, and what would you say? You don’t know what kind of discipline culture they have here. This isn’t your country. You’re not a mom. It is not your place to say anything. What could you do anyway?

We didn’t speak but instead, sped up and focused on returning home, tensing up around every corner, not sure of what we would see next. Finally, we arrived back at our Airbnb feeling completely defeated and drained from the events of the day.

It was not lost on me for a second, that the moment we left the Srebrenica memorial and I asked the question, ‘How can you just do nothing?’ I was immediately put in two situations where I had to confront that exact question for myself.

All night I ran through everything that happened, and tried to make sense of what we saw. I thought of the graveyards and the bridge that started an entire war. I thought of the images in the memorial, of the victims faces staring back at me. I thought of a video that played in on a small screen of a man who was caught on tape right before he was murdered by a Serb officer. “Are you afraid?” the officer taunted him on the camera. He seemed to collect himself and really think about his answer. With all the dignity in the world, he looked the officer directly in the eye and responded, ‘How could I not be afraid?’ before he was marched off and shot. I thought of the unfair treatment of the dog and the child, both completely innocent. I struggled with how I had handled the situation. I wished I had done more. For the millionth time, I wondered what it all meant.

I asked myself the following questions: Did you handle everything as best you could? Why did you freeze? Why didn’t you do more? What could you have done better? Is there even a right answer? Where do you go from here?

It wasn’t just the boy and the dog, but everything that Sarajevo represented. I didn’t want to just look the other way and try to forget about what I knew, but I also didn’t want the heaviness of everything to completely weigh us down and our experience in Sarajevo.

I thought about it for a long time and decided that the best thing that I could do after everything we had seen was to find the light wherever I could. It was the only thing to do. Basically, the best thing I can do, is to always do the best thing I can.

It sounds so simple: be kind, do the right thing, be a good person. But if it is so simple, why do we all struggle with it so much? Because not everything can be divided between black and white, between darkness and light. There are so many different shades to what happened here in Sarajevo, in Bosnia, in the Balkans. There was so much chaos set on some of the most beautiful landscapes that exist in the entire world. So much hate surrounding the most welcoming, kind and generous people I have ever encountered. Just like at home, and just like everywhere else in the world. All the horrible things that have happened does not mean that these places still aren’t filled with so much good. I can’t choose to only focus on the darkness.

I thought of this the next day. When we woke up, we decided that we would leave the previous day behind us and set a strong intention for our last full day in Sarajevo. No matter what, we would seek out only lightness in everything we did.

 

Day 2: The Light

 

The next day, we took a drive up the hills of Sarajevo and into the hills of Trebević. Although it did have some harsh uses during the war, we kept our promise and chose to focus on some of the better aspects. This site was used for a number of winter events during the 1984 olympics, and is positioned with a stunning view of the surrounding hills and city. It is also now a protected area due to the biological diversity found here. We walked up to the highest point of the hill and took in the views of Bosnia. We both took a moment to fully appreciate just how beautiful Bosnia is.

 

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The abandoned bobsled track.

 

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True statement.

 

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Gorgeous.

 

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From the top of the mountain.

 

Tunnel of Hope

 

Afterwards, we drove about 30 minutes to the ‘Tunnel of Hope.” During the war, Sarajevo and the people within it were completely cut off from the rest of the world. So, the people secretly built a tunnel by hand that stretched underground into two nearby towns. Through this tunnel, they were able to receive food, medical supplies, and humanitarian aid. In short, the tunnel kept the city of Sarajevo alive with hope.

 

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The building that saved a city.

 

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You can get an idea of how surrounded they were, and where the tunnel cut through.

 

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Inside the Tunnel of Hope, where thousands passed through every single day.

 

We had the chance to walk through the tunnel and see some of the footage from the day that Sarajevo was liberated. Sarajevo was supposed to be completely destroyed by the end of the siege, but the Serbian military underestimated the strength of its people. It was an unreal experience, and truly amazing to see how people came together to fight back and bring strength to light in the darkest of times.

 

The Sarajevo Brewery

 

After the tunnel, we decided to head back to the city and visit the Sarajevo brewery (or Sarajevska Pivara). The brewery itself is a beautiful building. It was the one European brewery that did not stop production during the Ottoman Empire or during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy. During the 90’s war, it was nearly completely destroyed – but it still did not stop production. It was also the only source of drinking water during the siege. The brewery that just wont quit.

 

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And the beer is delicious, in case you were wondering.

 

Strolling through Sarajevo’s Beauty

 

After the brewery, we walked around and took in the unreal beauty of Sarajevo’s old town.

 

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This is the national library, which was destroyed during the war, and now has been completely rebuilt.

 

 

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Sign on the library doors.

 

 

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Such a cool place to explore.

 

The Sun Sets on Sarajevo (and our road trip) 

 

After we spent the day surrounded by the best parts of Sarajevo, we decided to walk up to the Yellow Fortress and watch the sun set over the city. It finally began to sink in for both of us that our journey here was really coming to an end.

Sarajevo was our final stop in this big Balkan adventure. The next day, we would leave to spend our last few days back in Slovenia before flying out to begin the next phase of our trip. It was the perfect place for us to process and reflect on everything that we had done over the past two months. I looked over the city and silently thanked Sarajevo for everything that it had shown me.

I still don’t know why I was meant to experience this, and I don’t think that the pieces will all fit together until enough time has passed for me to see the entire picture. But, I do know that I will continue to try as hard as I can to build a life that belongs to me, filled with the kind of experiences that I love, instead of wasting time and energy focusing on the all things that I do not. I am fortunate enough to have the opportunity to do this with my life, so I have to take it. How could I not, when I look at those laying underground on the hills of Sarajevo, who never had the chance?

For the rest of our lives, we will face shades of darkness that will appear in all different forms. It is unavoidable. But now when I face them, I will not forget Sarajevo, and what it felt like there. To sit on the fortress and watch the light stream over the hills into the valley of the beautiful city that they tried to crush into nothing. It survived. They were able to find light in spite of so many people trying to permanently extinguish it. And if they can find it, so can I.

And to think it all started with a book.

 

 

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3 Comments · Labels: Bosnia & Herzegovina, Life, Travel

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